Chronicle "It's life" - Fashion: beyond chic

Why do some despise fashion?Usually, the answer is obvious: it's frivolous, it pollutes and it pushes consumerism.And it's either too expensive or not enough.Because now, we know that this jeans at 18 euros is an economy carried out on the backs of workers in Bangladesh, Uighurs or children of the world.Enough to turn his visa seven times in his pocket before coming out ... empty -handed but proud (era).We are a little frustrated, but we have successfully signed up in virtuous, responsible, in short, political behavior!Who would've believed that ?When you are rich, the case is crushed.It's about spending your fortune with conscience.There is no longer any question here of giving in to a whim.No, if I slam, I want my money to be useful to a cause.It can be the environment, with the "local" t-shirt or the "clean" denim (one wonders how, but good ...).More expensive, necessarily.And not always in accordance with our desire.Too bad, it's for a good deed.

Where the purchase becomes a priesthood is when you opt for a deliberate display.Your clothes, sorry, your "pieces" - as we talk about the pieces in the Pinault collection - clamor your political positions.The most radical creator is called Demna Gvasalia - Pronounce Vassalia.You don't know him?It is the Georgian who draws Balenciaga.Yes, the house founded in 1917 by Cristobal Balenciaga, the designer of the Spanish royal family.The claw had died a bit with the death of its founder.Nicolas Ghesquière awakened it in 1997 in a sober and geometric style;After about fifteen years, he left for Vuitton.

With Demna, each outfit is a combat declaration

So Demna.A tough man who did not have an easy childhood: civil war, exile, then Germany ... We do not do it.He accumulated diplomas: economy and finance at the University of Tbilisi, then turn to fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.While Georgia found peace, Demna turbed.Created his claw, clothes, between destroy and trashy.His postulate: "Subvert High Fashion".Clearly: reverse the chic values of haute couture.This is an exciting principle to heat the Amex!He does not go by four paths, the Georgian.Begins by inventing the concept of "highsnobia", which could be translated as "high society of snobbery".It's a joke.High couture was so far an exaltation of classic beauty and elegance?Well, now, it is a posture that claims a taste for populo, holes, misshapen, too wide, bizarre, plouc, in short, the ugly!Snobism?

Before Gvasalia, "Les Deschiens" (play by Jérôme Deschamps and Macha Makeïeff) launched the anti-distinction at the Avignon Festival.It was kitsch, funny, so finely old -fashioned that it was "fashion".Besides, Miuccia Prada copied them.But there, with Demna, we no longer laugh.Each outfit is a combat declaration.You have to observe the gravity of models dressed in tinters-you are not trying to seduce, even less to display your money: you aestheticizes your discomfort.Do you share these positions?So treat yourself to the oversize jogging jacket at 1,300 euros.One size, it will go to all your dynasty.The T-shirt with the drooling emoji is more affordable: 495 euros.OK, criticize the prices of these clothes, which is more eco -responsible, "made with recycled materials", sometimes even with old clothes, it's mean.

Read.Fashion Week: fashion goes green

You have to face the facts: shopping in some luxury houses is no longer futile.We crack "in conscience", if necessary, we force ourselves to acquire a flower dress that we would not have dared to give his cleaning lady in the past.But it is a social criticism.Tour against oneself.