Fashion industry: "Brands use iconic models who do not represent the population"

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Andréa Gilet is internal growth director at Euveka. She advocates for the fashion industry to become more ethical.

The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions. Apart from its lack of ecological responsibility, it is also criticized for a lack of inclusiveness. With a clothing offer that is not always representative of society as a whole. Accused of all the evils the fashion industry? At Euveka, the creation of connected and evolving robot mannequins tries to encourage manufacturers to turn to more ethical fashion. Interview with Andréa Gilet, internal growth director of the Drôme company.

In concrete terms, how do the connected and scalable robot mannequins designed by Euveka work? Fashion manufacturers are faced with a scourge: size and fit problems! This is the first cause that pushes consumers to chain returns (a third of clothes returned on online platforms, largely for size problems, editor's note). From there, our robot mannequins capture physical morphological data to adapt precisely to the bodies of clients. The wooden mannequins, which are commonly used, are based on a single morphology – often young and dynamic bodies – which are then modeled to produce several sizes. From a base therefore not necessarily suitable. No, wooden mannequins do not respond to fashion issues.

We use mechatronics for our robot mannequins. Which also include a second skin effect cover. Then, inside, the dummies are therefore robotized and connected to a computer which, via algorithms, gives orders to the dummies so that they vary the measurement axes.

It's often said that the fashion industry lacks inclusiveness, do you think so too? Of course. Often, for a collection, brands call on famous, iconic models who do not sufficiently represent the population. We always find – or almost – the same models represented on the sites! It's a signal, as if brands were nurturing the image of a certain type of clientele in their stores. An image that doesn't often go hand in hand with large sizes. We at Euveka, our robot mannequins adapt to sizes ranging from 36 to 46. This corresponds to approximately 80% of the population. We are also about to reach an even wider range – with sizes that will go beyond but also below.

From an economic point of view, brands have no interest in making less room for large sizes. Since they are depriving themselves of customers and a fortiori of sales! (The 2006 IFTH study in France shows that size 40 comes up most often for women, followed by 42 and 44). At the same time, we can't forget that for model makers, it remains more difficult to come up with prototypes for large sizes. This requires more knowledge and more specific courses upstream.

On the ecological aspect, there too, fashion must review its copy? Yes, when we say that the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, we are dealing with an estimate, I believe in reality the figure goes beyond that. Let's go to the source, that is to say the clothing manufacturers, that's where it all comes down to! When we produce a garment, we want it to be sold. It seems logical. And yet, once again, sizing issues or ill-fitting clothes are detrimental to the satisfaction of consumers who will either return their product or throw it away. Technology – for which the fashion sector has long shown its reluctance – partly solves this textile waste.

So yes, you and I – as a consumer – also have a role to play. The trend of online shopping is becoming widespread, which makes it even more risky to match a garment to our body. With this feeling that we buy online to see. We order and we try. That's a shame. But make no mistake, it is the brands themselves that must drive change and raise awareness. Besides, I think mentalities in the sector are slowly changing. Remember, major brands have announced that they want to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions by 30% by 2030 [this was in 2018 as part of the Fashion Industry Charter for Action climate, editor's note]. A lot of things are wrong in this industry, it's undeniable, but I believe that we are finally on the right path.

Interview by Geoffrey Wetzel

PS: textiles also know how to show commitment when necessary!