It comes from elsewhere: the tweed |The press

La Presse décortique l’origine d’une tendance mode : d’où vient-elle et pourquoi émerge-t-elle ? Comment la porter ? Décryptage.

The trend

Timeless and classic, the tweed, this carded wool fabric, resurfaces every fall. Synonyme du retour de la saison froide, on le voit partout cette année : chez les fashionistas, les influenceurs et blogueurs mode, les designers… et dans les vitrines des boutiques (H & M, Château, Simons, Zara, Banana Republic, entre autres).

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It is worn in total look, from head to foot, or in small touches, in a more deconstructed and more relaxed way.The 2019 version is as lighter and flexible than the original tweed."The real tweed is quite thick," says Nandya Massa Pinto, personal stylist.Today, what we see is the look of tweed without necessarily being wool.The tweed is imitated: the fabric used is acrylic or polyester.The look is the same!»»

Where is that from ?

Hot and resistant, the tweed was first worn by men, farmers, craftsmen or soldiers."We already used it in the 1800s in Scotland," explains Audrey Simard, stylist.It was used for uniforms.Little by little, women were interested in it."In Scotland as in England, women started to get into the wardrobe of their husbands," says Louise Labrecque, stylist. C’était au tournant du XX^e siècle, et les femmes voulaient s’émanciper.»»

In this current, a woman, more than all the others, dared: Coco Chanel.In 1954, she launched her famous little right jacket, with four pockets, in tweed, which she twin with a wallet skirt also in tweed. « Elle l’a démocratisée, précise M^me Simard, et cela est devenu la pièce iconique de Chanel.»» Le succès a été instantané.The stars of the hour, from Brigitte Bardot to Romy Schneider, via Jackie Kennedy, take ownership of the trend and carry the tweed on all occasion.

In the early 1980s, when he took the lead in the creation of the Chanel house, designer Karl Lagerfeld will bring the tweed back to the forefront.He adds an avant-garde touch by opting for a colorful tweed, ranging from tart nuances to pastel colors.In 2015, in its spring-summer collection, Lagerfeld pays tribute to Chanel's flagship, this time mixing Streetwear and Tweed Veston.

Why ?

Versatile, the tweed is worn both in a chic or relaxed way, in an ensemble or in spare part.In short, he is one of those key parts of the wardrobe, with which we can play by assembling them to other pieces. « C’est un vêtement de caractère, un vêtement qui a une âme et une personnalité»», indique Louise Labrecque, propriétaire de l’Académie Avec Style.

Pour Audrey Simard, qui se définit comme une « fan finie de tweed»», le tweed fait partie des basiques, tout comme le chemisier blanc, les escarpins, la robe noire, le pantalon noir classique et le jeans. « Avec ces quelques pièces, les possibilités de mix and match sont nombreuses !»», s’exclame celle qui est à la tête de l’entreprise Les Relookeuses.She also recalls that current trends are a lot of fashion in the 90s: "We are in a vintage era in which we bring out the trends of yesteryear a lot.»»

Are we trying it?

Why not ?If we want to go carefully, we dare the classic tweed, for example the black and white chicken foot pattern, that we agreed with dark jeans and a t-shirt."You can also put on a colorful tailor on a monochrome set, suggests Nandya Massa Pinto, from the refined agency.Or, we opt for a black and pink checkered jacket.»»

The good idea: bet on deconstruction and the rebellious side."You have to break the classic code associated with tweed," believes Louise Labrecque, wearing it for example with jeans, combat boots or a scarf that takes up a color of the jacket.»»