Muslim fashion niche

Début janvier, la nouvelle est tombée, tonitruante, via une campagne de pub: la marque Dolce & Gabbana lance une ligne de hijabs et d'abayas. Le couple Domenico Dolce et Stefano Gabbana, plutôt connu pour son imagerie catho sexy, ses femmes façon veuves siciliennes hot à grosses croix, aurait-il viré sa cuti religieuse ? La vérité est sans doute bien plus concrète et opportuniste. Car la mode musulmane est un marché porteur: selon l'agence de presse Reuters, en 2013, les musulmans ont dépensé 266 milliards de dollars en habillement. Ce chiffre pourrait atteindre 484 milliards de dollars d'ici à 2019.

For Frédéric Godart, sociologist and researcher (1), this population constitutes a "new target for luxury brands that stagnate more and more and are lacking in growth relays.The market contracts and is very competitive ”.The stake according to him: Surviving, "finding new people to whom to sell". Toutefois, pour ce spécialiste des industries de la création, on s'est beaucoup focalisé en France sur le cas de Dolce & Gabbana et sur la mode dite «musulmane»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», qui renvoie aux débats enflammés sur la laïcité propres à l'Hexagone, mais cette tendance s'inscrit dans un mouvement plus vaste entamé dès 2007 et appelé «modest fashion»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» ou «mode pudique »»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».

"This trend first appeared among evangelical Christians in the United States, then among Hasidic Jews, with brands like Mimu Maxi launched inBrooklyn by Mimi Hecht and Mushky Notik, two orthodox Jewish sisters,he.It is only then that the movement was taken up by start-ups for Muslims, then by big brands.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»Screech of four emblematic scenarios of this new seduction operation.

Dolce & Abaya

Traditionnellement catholique, la marque Dolce & Gabbana, basée à Milan, a dévoilé en janvier une collection «Abaya»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» composée de hijabs (le foulard classique) et d'abayas (tenues longues portées par-dessus les robes et pantalons).The pieces - fourteen silhouettes in total - are of sober colors, wear flowery patterns (Marguerites, Roses) and delicate embroidery as the Italians know how to make them.This is the first time that the luxury ready-to-wear claw has produced a “Muslim Friendly” collection sold in Europe and in the Middle East countries: in a press release, it recalls that “Muslims represent 22 % ofthe world's population, and their clothing requirements are too often abandoned by the major European fashion and ready-to-wear houses ”.

Shelina Janmohamed (2), vice-présidente de l'agence de conseil en communicationOgilvy Noor, basée à Londres et spécialiste du marché musulman, y voit certes un signe d'ouverture mais souligne que Dolce & Gabbana cible là «une petite partie de la population au Moyen-Orient.Their offer is a variant of what already exists more than a real innovation in Muslim fashion, what many women in the Middle East have pointed out ”.The Abaya collection has been praised in the Muslim world, with a recurring criticism: the model committed to embody the campaign is of the Caucasian type.

In its press release, the Italian house prefers to evoke its taste for orientalism that the making-of of this test campaign.The Abaya collection is thus inspired by "a reverie through the dunes of the desert and the heavens of the Middle East: an enchanting story of vision around the grace and beauty of the wonderful women of Arabia" ... The Capsule collectionshocked a fringe of French feminists."Two currents oppose feminists," notes sociologist Frédéric Godart.Some people think that women are free to do what they want, and therefore to veil themselves if they wish.Others consider that hiding the body and/or the head is to bend to an injunction of the patriarchy.But these two visions have already faced each other around the needle heel for example, between those who estimated that it was the power of the woman to wear them or not, and those who envisaged this shoe as an instrument of "objective" ofwife.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

The Uniqlo case

The Japanese firm has also rushed into the clothing niche of Muslim women.In July 2015, the brand chose the Anglo-Japanese and Muslim Hana Tajima stylist and blogger to launch a special collection sold in stores in Singapore and online.At 29, the young woman already benefits from a certain popularity: very active on her blog, she also founded her own brand, Maysaa.

«L'annonce de cette contribution a tout de suite été virale sur Internet»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», se souvient Reina Lewis (3), professeure d'études culturelles au London College of Fashion (Université des Arts de Londres).For the teacher and researcher, "the Internet has enabled an unsatisfied clientele of the existing offer to obtain products, but also a community to develop"»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».However, the announcement of the collaboration of Tajima and the Japanese giant was done by walking on eggs, without ever mentioning Islam or religion in general.

Dans ses communiqués, Uniqlo a mis en avant le «confort»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» de pièces faites pour la «détente»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».Ample pants, long skirts, fluid blouses, but also abayas, and hijabs. De quoi, selon la marque, plaire aux clients «conservateurs»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» et compléter la «garde-robe des fashionistas aux goûts actuels»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».And above all, satisfy rather young believing women, without seeming to address them to them.Frédéric Godart sees in this communication "a certain art of euphemism.I think the goal is not to close to other potential consumers.Because if we look closely, apart from the hijabs, many pieces of this "modest fashion" can correspond to the three major religions "»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».

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— Karl Rose Sun Feb 25 20:03:10 +0000 2018

Hana Tajima explains for her part having wanted to "question the notion of beauty: for a long time, it is a hypersexualized vision that has reigned in the media and the fashion industry.It was important for me to give voice to another way of seeing things ”»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».What about the place of religion in his work?The young woman prefers to underline her desire to "capture and retransmit feelings, sensations, that anyone can feel that she matters, her origins or her religion"»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».Only constraint in his eyes: use breathable materials and small hidden openings to allow air to circulate, the body being often covered.

For the rest, no specifications inspired by religious texts, she assures, because "each woman has her own definition of modesty.Not all cover their heads for example ”»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».Hana Tajima concedes a few guidelines: three-quarters or more sleeves, and hems at the ankles."I don't think fashion and spirituality are two opposite forces," she said.But when it comes to moderate public fashion and trends, it is certain that it becomes difficult to reconcile the two, because of a lack of diversity.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»The speech won over: at the end of February, the spring-summer collection drawn by Hana Tajima has arrived in store and this time, the products will be on sale in the United States, online and in the New York flagship of thebrand, on the fifth avenue.

H&M et l’argument de la diversité

The brand finely played the opening card last year. Le géant suédois s'est bien gardé de produire une collection dédiée aux musulmanes afin d'éviter d'être jugé «segmentant»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» par l'industrie de l'habillement grand public. A l'instar de McDonald qui clame «Venez comme vous êtes»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», H&M a plutôt valorisé la diversité de ses clients et notamment des jeunes femmes modernes et voilées.In Close The Loop, campaign dedicated to the recycling of clothing, we come across skaters and disabled, rockers and bourgeois, anonymous and stars such as Iggy Pop, a large model ... and a young woman wearing ahijab.And the real star of the advertising film was ultimately this stranger, named Mariah Idrissi.

24 -year -old, this Englishman of Pakistani and Moroccan origin has just opened a london living room in London. Si elle a joué les mannequins pour H&M, c'est pour représenter cette nouvelle génération que l'on nomme «hijabistas»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» ou «mipsterz»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», deux néologismes pour caser les hipsters férues de mode et non moins voilées. Son visage a fait le tour du globe, car H&M n'avait encore jamais mis en avant une musulmane voilée dans une campagne internationale.But the fast-fashion giant has targeted a community of mind rather than the Muslim woman.Professor Reina Lewis: "Close The Loop was focused on diversity and it is, I believe, the first time that religion thus appears in this context, alongside other communities.Not only the Muslim religion: the spot also featured a Sikh blogger, which also made a big noise in the United Kingdom.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

H&M précise d'ailleurs que Mariah Idrissi n'est pas l'une de ses égéries mais un visage parmi d'autres. «Nous nous adressons à tout le monde, en étant le plus démocratique possible»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», martèle un porte-parole de la marque suédoise, qui ne pouvait rêver meilleur buzz.That Reina Lewis analyzes as follows: "Many people feel ignored by fashion, whether by brands or by the specialized press.It is even more marked in women: the majority of them do not recognize themselves there.The speed at which the news of Mariah Idrissi's participation in this campaign has spread attests to the appetite of Muslim women to be represented.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

Mango, Hilfilger, Dkny… Ramadan lens

Dkny is among the first to have started on the market.From July 2014, the New York brand (created by Donna Karan and property of the LVMH group) offers a capsule collection of a dozen pieces drawn by the designer based in Dubai Tamara Al Gabbani and the fashion stylist and fashion journalist Yalda Golsharifi, who also played the models for the related campaign.Black, white, ocher yellow, some flowery but sober patterns characterize this line designed for Ramadan and its festive events, such as Sahur, or "dawn meal"»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».

In the wake of Dkny, theBritish Net-A-Porter online sales site launches, in turn, in May 2015, its collection for the occasion. Quelques semaines plus tard, Mango annonce l'arrivée dans le monde arabe (tant en Iran qu'au Maroc et aux émirats) d'une ligne baptisée «L'invitée idéale»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»», faite d'«alternatives créatives et sophistiquées à l'abaya traditionnelle et aux tchadors»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».The Spanish firm has a special collections department responsible for adapting its offer to the different geographic areas in which its 2,700 shops are located.It was then Tommy Hilfiger who kissed, this same summer 2015, with there too a dozen pieces, all of emerald green, black and white, marketed in the Middle East for Ramadan."The big brands adapt by discussing with local distributors, in particular to know what, in the collections, can appeal to buyers of the sector," explains Frédéric Godart.For example, the green color is very present in stalls in Saudi Arabia, not on Western markets.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

Would the month of fasting be becoming a consumption meeting?This is little doubt for Reina Lewis: “With a young and growing population, these consumers now constitute a real segment for the flourishing Muslim marketing industry, which previously focused on finance and food, points out theLondon researcher.From now on, you have to count with fashion and lifestyle, niche sectors hitherto ignored, especially in Europe.»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»

For her, "Ramadan is even considered by some marketing professionals as a similar meeting at Christmas: a moment to buy"»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».An anticipated evolution in 2012 by the London analysis firm Euromonitor International.Cited by the New York Times, these specialists already predicted a rise in a business around Ramadan.Ilse Thomele, analyst within the firm, even believed that one could expect "the probable appearance of a consumer typical of Ramadan, similar to that of Christmas"»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»».- V.B.

(1) Frédéric Godart, author of fashion sociology, La Découverte edition, 2010.(2) She is the author of a love-witness love in a headscarf on her life as an English and Muslim woman.(3) Professor of cultural studies at the London College of Fashion (University of London Arts).She is the author of Muslim Fashion published in 2015 and unpublished in France.

Influential bloggers

The growing visibility of the young Muslim generation owes a lot to the Internet and social networks.It is in the United States that we find the most followed blogs.Iman Ali, a student in a University of Michigan, distilled colorful looks on The Hijablog and where she mixed creators and general public.She has now closed the site and migrated on Instagram where it is displayed without hijab."The elegant and the religious are not in binary opposition-they can very well coexist," she noted in our pages in 2013.[…] Before, the hijab was coordinated with hairstyles and multi-layer tracks in synthetic, long-sleeved, often in garish tones.Today, women dare to stand out.Egyptians wear zara or mango like anyone, but coupling them with wider or more covered pieces.The style of scarves itself has changed in the right direction.Before, the hijab defined your outfit, now it is considered an accessory.He gained elegance. »»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» Noor Tagouri, 22 ans, journaliste américaine d'origine lybienne, est un exemple type d' «empowerment»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» à la musulmane.Very active on YouTube where she broadcasts her reports to more than 15,000 subscribers and on Instagram that she reserves at her pace and fashionable (nearly 100,000 subscribers), the 22 -year -old woman has only one ambition: one day present information on an American channel, wearing its hijab.The Tutorials of the Englishman Amena are followed by 310,000 subscribers.The Dutchman Ruba Zai has 569,000 followers on her Instagram Mode and Lifestyle.In France, few bloggers are on this niche.

The Hijab in the City site, which mixed social subjects and Muslim fashion echoes, is today inactive.Reina Lewis notes the importance of these blogs which convey a more subtle image of Muslim femininity: “Since September 11 and the other attacks that have followed, images of Muslims in the press are often anxiety -provoking, associated with the concept of danger.You never see photos of veiled women to illustrate fashion subjects.In parallel, more and more young women have started to revisit the hijab.Somewhere, Muslim fashion responds to these two issues, fill something.It should also be noted that all Muslim women are not covered in the same way, nor for the same reasons.For some, it is a political act of affirmation, of pride. »»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» — M.O.