What is fashion for the 1980s?

Kaleidoscopic silhouettes intersect between the tubes of the Beaubourg museum.They walk at the footsteps of the Axel Bauer night cargo cargo, the eye of black, embossed hair, red mouth.Unless I am mistaken, they did not wander their on-inflated shoulders in 1984, but on March 6, 2019, on the Louis Vuitton podium, where Nicolas Ghesquière closed almost three weeks of fall-winter 2019-2020 parades.

As an apotheosis, since the vintage of the year was studded with elements borrowed from the eighties.This return is also perceived in the street, and the streetstyles.If fashion is an eternal beginning, why has it fixed this period in its retro?And what does this return from the 1980s in today's world say?

Superstar suit

If it was necessary to designate only one piece to crystallize this return, it would undoubtedly be the costume.Uniform of the Business Woman of the 1980s, the Power Dressing was everywhere this season: Balenciaga, Givenchy, Lemaire or Saint Laurent, winning up to the podium off-white usually very sporty.A presence all the more noticed as it follows in fashion dominated by this second register."By definition, these are clothes that marry the body, derived from Activewear," said Pascal Monfort, founder of the Trendy Office.

Superstructures

With its studied lines and underlined shoulders, the costume shows the opposite of the streetwear current which has hovered over trends for several seasons.To express a fed up?"Sportswear has been carried so much by everyone that a reaction to this" soft "mode is a more structuring fashion.However, the sculptural is a very eighties value, ”continues Pascal Monfort.The renowned tailors that marked the 1980s, like Claude Montana or Thierry Mugler, are experiencing a renewed interest in this year this year.When the first sees his creations reinterpreted by the stylist Gareth Pugh for Farfetch in collaboration with Byronesque, the second is exhibited at the moment in Montreal and his vintage outfits adopted on the red carpet by celebrities like Cardi B or Kim Kardashian.

Transform the body

Pascal Monfort also recalls that "sociologically, the tailor is a garment that expresses a distance, distinguishes the one who carries it".And gives "body to the body"."Shops, assertive lines are a way of transforming the body, to overcome it," he continues.Inevitably, we think of business women for whom the uniform was used to conquer a universe then dominated by men.An ambitious working girl embodied with charm in 1988, by Melanie Griffith.

When the Tailoring of the 1980s invites itself to parades 2019-2020

How not to make the link with the news, at the time of the affirmation of female power?No doubt had to digest Me Too's shock, putting things flat through streetwear, in essence unisex.To return to structured clothes, which beyond giving power to those who wear them, reflect their intrinsic strength.As Pascal Monfort notes: "Perhaps after this wave where everyone was cool, this relaxed attitude no longer takes place of supreme value.»»

A dose of kitsch

In another register, the creators will draw from the source of the Kitch of the 1980s, that of the pop culture of the top 50s, so dear to Jacquemus or Amélie Pichard.

On Instagram, the designer Amélie Pichard highlights icons of this decade such as Stéphanie de Monaco, the interpreter of Hurricane (her tube of the album need).Same bell in the child in Salon-de-Provence, who has referred to the Isabelle Adjani in Marine Pull since the start has referred to the Isabelle Adjani.Codes that we also find in JW Anderson, who imagined last March a tele-shopping program (genus whose world boom dates back to the late 1980s) to present his Keyts bag.

"Toutouyoutou"

The 1980s were also those of the cult of the body, carried by the rise of the aerobic.A discipline with aesthetic codes marked by fluorescent colors, tapered forms and materials like the Lycra of which were punctuated by the last parades.As with Marine Serre, whose tight combinations reinvent this aesthetic thought for forty years for a future that has become current. Sur les réseaux sociaux, la «shag hair cut»», arborée dès les années 1970 par Jane Fonda, papesse du fitness outre-Atlantique, reprend du poil de la tête...

Palace

This flamboyance stamped 1980 takes all its brilliance at nightfall.As with Saint Laurent, where we thought we crossed Betty Catroux returning from the evening.The festive and flamboyant aura of the palace and the Studio 54 also appeared on the Podium Michael Kors of the latest Fashion Week in New York, at Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2019 or even in the romantic verve of Marc Jacobs for next season.The sex appeal of the Eighties nights was also found at Isabel Marant where the girls in legs played shoulders, while in the last Parisian parades Hermès, the nail and the leather gave a chic-like rock touch, just like at Balmain andits "Madonnesque" looks».

On video, Doria Tillier, fan of the years 1980-1990

Nostalgia for an unknown era

Would the young generation be in love with nostalgia for an unknown era?According to a study by Thred Up, an American sales platform between individuals, the vintage market should exceed that of fast fashion by 2028;A transition driven by millennials, which represent almost 33% of its consumers.

If we can see a sensitivity to the environmental cause, the phenomenon also testifies to an attraction for the past.Pascal Monfort confirms: “There is a real fascination for the counter-cultures of the 1980s.Heavy metal, hip hop ... Today this is all too polarized, and no longer exists.»Among them, Voguing dear to Madonna continues to trace its road in the urban jungle and reach followers on the fashion side.This season evidenced this season the performances of Kiddy Smile on the sidelines of Fashion Week, in DJ set or live, or even the energetic ballet animating the Kenzo Memento collection n ° 4.