When fashion celebrates life together

Le baiser est fougueux, les corps s'enlacent. Dans les récentes campagnes de pub de plusieurs maisons de mode, on réhabilite une certaine image du sensible et de l'amour. Le nouveau directeur artistique de Diesel, Glenn Martens, a d'emblée fait de l'intime sa signature, en prenant ses fonctions en 2020. Sa campagne SS2021 «When Together» suit huit couples réels témoignant de leurs retrouvailles après le confinement. Les visuels donnent à voir cet état de grâce liée à la joie et la passion, qui accompagnent la vision de l'être aimé.

"Their stories, made up of human experiences of great wealth, invite spectators to recognize their own lives, in a period that has imposed separation," deciphers the Creator.In July, Diesel reveals other visuals: boys and girls, in close -ups, laughing at full tooth - calling for the jubilation of living together.In this still traumatic era, when society struggles to regain its marks after successive confinements, the clothing tries to impose itself in a social vector.

Thus in the latest campaign of the creator Jacquemus, we grab the T -shirt of the other, we dress in an almost twin way - fashion becomes a sensual, physical link between individuals.His latest show "La Montagne" put inclusion in the spotlight - was invited, the intersectional feminist activist Rokhaya Diallo and paraded so -called "plus size" models.Jacquemus continues to exploit the spectrum of almost family love, as a marketing argument: family of heart, artist family, as sas of tolerance, in a dilapidated world.

Keeping to himself

If this sensitive imaging, haunts fashion, it is not trivial: that said a lot of the spirit of an industry that must be rebuilt and find binders, having lost physical contact with its audience. L'achat en ligne est passé de 12% en 2019 à 23% en 2020, selon l'étude menée par le cabinet Bain & Company."We can see, in some creators, a sincere desire to express more sweetness, but above all we must detect a marketing strategy.It is very about talking about what missed us the most during this crisis: the other, ”analyzes Alexandre Samson, manager of contemporary fashion of the Galliera Palace.

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«C'est une façon aussi de traverser des temps incertains. La période a relégué l'importance du vêtement au second plan. Pour lui donner du sens, les enseignes véhiculent un message familier et positif.» Cette notion d'amour et de «bande» amoureuse s'avère profitable pour étendre sa communication. Les marques et maisons faisant l'apologie du love, font appel à notre désir de faire partie d'une communauté. Elles convoquent la notion de réseau, de passation - et par là aussi, de partage publicitaire. Le créateur devient fil fédérateur d'une «famille» qui va l'aider à transmettre son esprit.

New guard

But should we not see, too, a turning point in the industry?Because this unifying "love", kindly erotic, is conveyed by the young custody of designers.Jacquemus, Glenn Martens, Marine Serre, Nicolas Di Felice for Courrèges ... These new thirty -year -old figures display a clear desire to instill a little more meaning, in a sometimes accounting and sprawling business.

Thus in the midst of a health crisis, Nicolas Di Felice, the young designer from Courrèges, transformed the name of his house, into "courage".His campaign "Courrèges re -editions" too, presents love in all its forms.A desire to distill a more altruistic, human, even political, dimension of."Love in the broad sense, that is to say to take care but also to give meaning to things, is an integral part of my way of living and creating," says Marine Serre, when questioning the question.

In the designer, the love theme is recurrent, it is expressed in chaos, and through ultra-Contemporaines collections.But above all, he offers a new vision: love is a more tender look towards clothing, its buyers, the way of doing and consuming - this joins, in every way, the desire for ethics of the Serre Serre."Love conveyed through what I create is present in time spent doing things, the care to take and understand matter, its history.Until the way we transform it, ”she explains.

In the video "Amor Fati" which presented its spring-summer 2021 collection, bodies collide with violence, as if to bring out a spark in love, in a sensitive universe, haunted by ecological disasters and digital coldness.The film refers to Nietzsche's "love of fate".

Solitary love

Where the speech of these young creators is really just aiming for is that he seduces a young generation Tinder and Grindr who invents another love dialogue.A youth who has new icons like Morgane Ortin, author of lonely love (Albin Michel).To speak of love today is to touch a lost territory, but in full reinvention.It is to draw a more joyful passionate future, without gender borders.Through love, we pass the message of tolerance, towards the LGBTQIA +community among others.The garment becomes a message of diversity.

"The body, and the way in which clothing values it, then becomes a tool for assertiveness, claim, there is no longer a model to follow, but several," notes Alexandra Jubé, specialist in brands strategy.It is very visible in the campaign of Glenn Martens, where couples are of all origins, genres, sexualities."I want to celebrate the founding values of Diesel, and continue to create bridges, through a message of hope, optimism, and inclusiveness," says the latter.What if this crisis was the revolt of the intimate?

"The big crises have always had an impact on our way of designing fashion," comments Alexandre Samson."Even if it is still early to really see the changes.It is when the covid is defeated, that we can really observe them.For the moment, all creators take the milestones of change, and wait.So let's wait.