Buying second-hand clothes, is it eco-friendly? Subscribers

In ten years, the second-hand clothing market has boomed in France. The phenomenon has mainly increased with the proliferation of online sales platforms (the Lithuanian behemoth Vinted, Leboncoin, Etsy, Videdressing, eBay, etc.) which offer clothing and fashion accessories already worn in a digital consignment style. The figures are clear: in 2018, 16% of French people bought a second-hand item and doubled the following year (1).

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Against the background of the environmental crisis – the fashion industry is accused of emitting 10% of greenhouse gases – the practice seems to have all the assets to convince. In the first place, buying second-hand clothes makes it possible to use resources that have already been produced. A reassuring observation, when you know that the fashion sector is water-intensive: it takes on average between 7,000 and 10,000 liters of water to make traditional jeans, the equivalent of 285 showers...

It should also be noted that second-hand shopping promotes the extension of the lifespan of clothes, of which some consumers tire quite quickly – worldwide, the disposal of clothes that are still wearable would represent 460 billion dollars per year (2). This new consumption habit is also based on a circular economy where everyone can be both a supplier and a buyer.

"The platforms have not solved the problem of overproduction"

In short, at first glance, the overall operation would logically lead to a reduction in the carbon footprint of the clothing or fashion accessory found online. All driven by a phenomenon new to Sweden in early 2020: köpskam (to be translated as the shame of shopping, of buying new), which arose a few months after flyskam (the shame of flying) and speaks especially to new generations.

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— Philippe Allaire Fri Oct 28 05:21:16 +0000 2011

However, does second-hand shopping really encourage people to consume better and less? “If the second hand has advantages, it is only part of the answer. Admittedly, these platforms have democratized the sale of second-hand clothing and have made it desirable. However, they have not solved the problem of overproduction and overconsumption which has been raging for several years in the textile sector, and whose environmental consequences are disastrous. Nor have these platforms sought to temper the frenzy of consumers,” points out Élisabeth Laville, founder of the firm Utopies and author of L'Entreprise verte (2009).

It would even be quite the opposite. Logical, since most of these platforms are remunerated by recovering a commission on each item sold. Their economic model would therefore rather encourage consumption than the reverse. “Generally, these sites maintain the rapid turnover of models and encourage purchases via a push system sent to customers. The attractive second-hand prices also give purchasing power to consumers who are spending so much again,” continues Élisabeth Laville.

Shipping, a significant carbon footprint

These are not the only perverse effects of these online consignment sales. As long as they sell off items stamped Zara, H & M or Asos, they are not fighting against the environmental – or social – practices of fast fashion brands. As a reminder, these very inexpensive brands rely on fast fashion (the collections are produced massively and intensively over a short period), disposable, based on hyperconsumption. Not to mention that, for the sake of profitability, these textile companies outsource their production to countries in the South. A process that further alters the carbon footprint of the final product.

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In the case of the online sale of second-hand parts, the question of shipping also weighs. Before considering these purchases as eco-responsible, it is worth looking at their shipping method. “The logistics required for the transmission of the good, depending on the distance between the buyer and the seller, can also induce negative effects on the part in question. Finally, we must not forget that all these start-ups, which did not initially come from ecology, themselves have a carbon impact to be taken into account, ”says Élisabeth Laville.

In short, like renting clothes, buying second-hand clothes is an alternative to buying new products that can be ecologically counterproductive depending on how they are used. And if finally shopping in conscience, second-hand or not, was not simply the best compass?