Our guide to discover the South Finistère

Finistère's identity is nourished by the "right of the heart", minority feeling and a certain art of living.

Read also: "You can become Breton if you like Brittany"

# Culture: art in the nets

Museums and festivals enliven summer life, at a good pace. But Brittany is also revealed to those who know how to troll. At the turn of a factory or a flowered chapel, astonishing stories and unsuspected beauties are to be captured.

> Pumped

Promised for scrap or resale by the kilo, buoys and beacons were rusting in the rain in an industrial area, replaced by lighter equipment. Noël Le Hénaff, journalist and photographer, had the idea that they be exhibited in the city and maintained in the name of a certain idea of ​​industrial archaeology. Each is flanked by an explanatory panel. Unique in France.

Open-air conservatory of marine buoys and beacons, in the port of Poulgoazec, rue Noël-le-Hénaff, Plouhinec, 02-98-70-87-33.

> high statue

Between Cap Sizun and Pays Bigouden, the war memorial is worth the detour. Carved in stone, Sébastien Le Gouill stands bareheaded, hat in hand, fist clenched to his heart, leaning against a menhir. This man lost three sons and a son-in-law during the Great War. In 1922, he was the model of the sculptor René Quillivic, the origin of this tribute.

War memorial in the garden of the church, Plozévet.

Beacons, a whole story… (Brigitte Rebolar)

> Canned "Boat"

The Courtin cannery, which built its reputation on an irreproachable scallop confit, had been between classic stone walls since 1893, on a quay in Concarneau. Here it is since February in Trégunc, surprisingly design, like a long black liner turned upside down with three yellow striped chimneys. The idea is to increase production in more spacious premises but also to develop industrial tourism. With this in mind, a small canning museum has been integrated into the factory as well as a circuit among the workers.

Courtin canning factory, Kerouel area, Trégunc, 02-98-97-01-80. Every day from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

> find the fishing

On the auction, the walker will be explained the life of the port and the techniques of bass fishing in the raz de Sein, before visiting the market to discover the catch of the day.

Fish auction, rue du General-de-Gaulle, Plouhinec, 02-98-70-87-33. Mondays and Thursdays. Adult €4, child over 7, €1.

> The "Widow of the Isle of Sein"

Between these old welcoming walls is the French fund of painting inspired by Brittany in the 19th century. Emile Renouf's "Widow of the Island of Sein" (1880), the embodiment of all bereaved fishermen's wives, is worth this visit in itself. On the vast pedestrian square of the cathedral, the merry-go-round turns, for the children who have been well-behaved.

Musée des Beaux-Arts de Quimper, place de la Cathédrale. Every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. €5, reduced price €3.

> The other Seznec affair

Walk in the orchard with his cider apples then presentation of the tools of the last century when, on the farms of Brittany, the traditional drink was made yourself: Hervé Seznec gives a tour of his manor-cider house and lingers in the cellar where the Cornouaille cider is made, served in many creperies in the region. Tasting and direct sale. Lots of good things in the shop, like strawberry alcohol from Plougastel. Gift vouchers redeemable online.

Domaine du Kinkiz cidrerie, 75, chemin de Quinquiz, Ergué-Armel, Quimper, 02-98-90-20-57. Free (€2.50 in groups, by appointment). Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Reading under a parasol or umbrella For the news of the day, you can choose between "le Télégramme" and "Ouest-France". And the holidays continue in the Ravy bookshops, in Quimper, or the Livre Phare, in Concarneau, with a very regional selection.

> Zola against the Bretons

In July 1883, Emile Zola was in Sainte-Marine with his wife. He does not like this corner which he finds "disturbingly savage". We talk. It is believed that the great writer is here to find material for his next novel. "This bondieusarde and dirty Brittany, delivered to drunkenness and superstition, he was going to lay it on his anatomical table and rummage through it with his unbelieving rifle scalpel", said the poet Frédéric Le Guyader. Zola visits Fouesnant, Concarneau, the Pays de Léon. "Brittany questioned by him did not answer: it takes three to seven years to know it! Zola was intelligent to understand that he had nothing to do with us." Three short turns and then it was gone.

"The Journey to Brittany. From Nantes to Brest. From Brest to Saint-Malo", by Armelle Lavalou, Collection Bouquins Robert Laffont, €30.

> The forgotten poet

With his emaciated face and something suspicious in his expression, Xavier Grall impressed those who saw him walking, sometimes in clogs, on the heights of Pont-Aven. Since his hasty end in the winter of 1981 (he was 52), the poet discovered with "Barde de nuit" has been for the Bretons a kind of protesting and fraternal big brother, who had fled "Parisian Gehenna" (these are his words ), journalism and salon frills to return home.

"The Sône of rains and tombs", by Xavier Grall, Kerenn editions. In flea markets or on the internet.

> A star in Clochers-les-Bécasses

Bécassine, who made Brittany blush, was born Annaïck Labornez in Clochers-les-Bécasses, an imaginary village near Quimper. We will observe in passing how she resembles Tintin: by the drawing of the face and the eyebrow, the barely sketched mouth. Hergé will later recount having read Bécassine a lot and having admired his line. What Tintin owes to Brittany therefore remains to be written.

"The Childhood of Bécassine", by Pinchon and Caumery, Gautier Languereau editions, 14 euros.

> A Nobel near you

Brittany is proud of the fact that a French Nobel holds the Breton sky for the most beautiful of journeys. Jean-Marie Le Clézio, author of "Poisson d'or" and "Ourania", has taken up residence incognito in the purple steppes of the bay of Douarnenez. The inhabitants of his village keep his address secret and say that he is the nicest of neighbors. A child will be made to read "Lullaby", written in her early days, the story of a little girl who loved the sea much more than her schoolyard.

"Lullaby", Folio junior, €5.70 (from 11 years old).

> Simenon in Concarneau

1931. An assassination attempt a stone's throw from the Walled City under a nocturnal drizzle, a large stray dog, a melancholy hotel: strange things are happening in Concarneau in the winter of 1931. We think that Simenon must have been in residence there to restore so precisely an atmosphere. Oh no. He was cloistered in an inn in Essonne from where he wrote "The Yellow Dog" in a few days.

"The Yellow Dog", The Pocket Book, €5.60. Also: "Les Demoiselles de Concarneau", detective folio, €4.80.

The essentials

> Museum of Pont-Aven

Classic stage in the land of Gauguin and Sérusier. "Modernity in Brittany, from Jean-Julien Lemordant to Mathurin Méheut" is the theme of the exhibition.

Place Julia, 02-98-06-14-43, museepontaven.fr

> Douarnenez Film Festival

Long called the "Festival of Minorities", this very festive event around rare and often committed films takes this year as its theme the border. Wosniak, cartoonist at "Chained Duck", designed the poster.

From August 18 to 26, festival-douarnenez.com

> Blue Nets Festival

It’s been a nice tradition since 1905 when the Fête des Filets Bleus was created to help fishermen. Grupo Campay Secundo and Bagad Bro Konk Kerne give a free concert there.

Concarneau, from August 15 to 20, festivaldesfiletsbleus.fr

Read also: "You can become Breton if you like Brittany"

# Take a walk: beautiful getaways

Of course there is the cathedral of Quimper, the city of Gauguin, the festivals of Cornouaille… But the region also conceals more secret places where the weather is really good take a walk.

Tasty stopover at La Cabane, enjoying the splendors around Névez. (Jean-Marie Heidinger for "l'Obs")

> Boat rest

Wooden tuna boats such as the "Françoise-Annette", built in 1948 in Tréboul, or the "Lapart-Bihan II", which left the Audierne shipyard in 1946, end their days in this peaceful cove.

Locquéran boat graveyard, Plouhinec, opposite Audierne.

> Dreaming in Névez

The favorite of "l'Obs". Névez and its surroundings are breathtakingly beautiful – Jean Gabin used to spend his holidays here. Particularly admirable: the dry stone dwellings, built from the 18th century, with their flowery steps – they are called "standing stone houses". We will make a detour to the charming port of Kerdruc, before going to stock up on clams and periwinkles at the Cabane aux Coquillages by the water. Oysters matured on site. Restaurants and fishmongers in the region come here to stock up.

La Cabane aux Coquillages, 11, impasse des Kormorans, Névez, 02-98-06-81-49, hut-aux-coquillages.com

The boat cemetery, in Locquéran (Jean-Marie Heidinger for "l'Obs")

> Pass the small ferry

At the far end of the Ville Close, in Concarneau, there is the ferry, a small taxiboat in service all year round to go from the fortified town to the Lanriec district, on the other side of the channel, without making the detour via the Moros bridge or the dry dock. Since the Middle Ages a ferryman has been in charge of this crossing of a few minutes – the smallest cruise in the world. Generations of children have had their baptism of the sea there.

The ferry, every day, €1.

> With a bigouden or a bigouden

The Pont-l'Abbé tourist office is developing a network of "greeters", volunteer ambassadors from their region who take you through the Pays Bigouden to share a passion. One knows the port of Lesconil well, the other the megaliths of Quelarn. Extra.

Pont-l'Abbé Tourist Office, 11, place Gambetta, Pont-l'Abbé, 02-98-82-37-99.

> The Enchanted

Between Quimper and Bénodet, near Gouesnac’h, take the small road to Pors-Meillou, on the banks of the Odet – one of the most beautiful rivers in France. Ideal place for a family picnic before following another path, towards the Ty Théâtre champêtre, for its puppet show. You cross a clearing, and it is "Merlin the magician". A fountain, a Calvary, a chapel in the middle of century-old trees. "But hush! writes our informant, it's a secret place."

From Quimper, take the D34 towards Bénodet, then follow the D234 towards Gouesnac’h, margoden-theatre.net

> Shine standing

Kersanton stone, blue marble, precious wood and opaline: the Eckmühl lighthouse, 65 meters high, is distinguished by the nobility of its materials and the number of its steps – 290 arranged in a spiral. Once up there, it is such a splendor that some make this mini-pilgrimage every summer. At night, it's more romantic.

Eckmühl lighthouse, 06-07-21-37-34. €2.50 during the day, €7 at night on Tuesdays and Thursdays, at 9.30 p.m., 10 p.m. and 11 p.m.

Read also: "You can become Breton if you like Brittany"

# Out of season: why don't we come back?

Brittany is splendid in autumn and winter. If the adventure tempts you, here is our selection of hotels and guest rooms where to book for high tides.

The Grand Hotel des Dunes, an institution since 1934 (Jean-Marie Heidinger for "l'Obs")

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> The simplicity

150 meters from the beach of Sainte-Anne-la-Palud, this simple hotel in a large white building has also been able to avoid any embellishment that would have made it commonplace. Sober and relaxing rooms. In addition to the kindness of the owners, it is the ideal place to stay to go and discover places taken by storm in summer: the village of Locronan with its listed houses, the Pointe du Raz, where walkers in waxed are back.

Le Relais de Trefeuntec, 6b, rue Jean-Marie-Le-Bris, Sainte-Anne-la-Palud, Plonévez-Porzay, 02-98-92-50-03, from €50 to €99 , relay-de-trefeuntec.com

> Like on a boat

With its ochre-yellow facade, its antique boat furniture, its studded chesterfields, the Ker-Moor hotel is a beautiful sailor chic. It overlooks the large Sables-Blancs beach. It is the ideal observatory in heavy weather. A stone's throw away, a promenade runs along the corniche. By smugglers' paths, we descend into the creeks.

Hotel Ker-Moor, 37, rue des Sables-Blancs, Concarneau, 02-98-97-02-96, €126 per night, hotel-kermor.com

> Great Century

Built in 1934 by François and Simone Le Bec, a baker and butcher from Quimper, this Grand Siècle hotel on the edge of Pors Riagat beach is now run by their granddaughter, Jeanne. The moor smells and unrolls its carpets of wild orchids, its rosemary of the dunes. This hotel will appeal to those who bother with the standardization of decoration in renovated hotels. We love the linen towels embroidered with the name of the hotel, the house crest on the old crockery and the fact that dogs are welcome. We pop in for a Lesconiloise on the seafront, a mix of cider, Cointreau and peach cream.

Grand Hôtel des Dunes, 17, rue Laënnec, Plobannalec-Lesconil, 02-98-87-83-03, low season: €69 sea side, €54 village side, grand-hotel-des-dunes.com

> Thunder of Brest

In the Logonna-Daoulas peninsula, 20 minutes from Brest, this mansion overlooking the sea and its mandarin park was built in the 1930s by Frédéric Madec, owner of the stone quarries noble for chapels and castles. The wealthy industrialist had only to draw from it for his own home. Stéphane Pécot, master of these places, has recreated the atmosphere of a family home with antique furniture. It mixes Empire and Napoleon III styles with chic and sober English furniture. The parquet is made of this thick irregular wood from the pontoons, salvaged from old rigging. The choice of "Obs".

Domaine de Moulin Mer, 34, route de Moulin-Mer, Logonna-Daoulas, 02-98-07-24-45, 75 to 130 € per night, domaine-moulin-mer.com

> It's a pink house

Overlooking the beach of Port-Manec'h and its white wooden bathing cabins (Névez knows what the Belle Epoque and paid holidays were like), the Dalmore manor, which is nicknamed here the "Pink House" , was built in 1926 by an Australian woman who found a little of her native Scotland on this coast. In 2011, the house became a hotel. Spacious rooms with this dazzling decoration which is due to the old-modern contrast.

Dalmore Manor, 7, corniche du Pouldon, Névez, 02-98-06-82-43. A little expensive for the low season: €130 breakfasts not included (€14.50), manoirdalmore.com

And alsoCastle life in a former hunting lodge that extends over one hundred hectares of woods along a cove in the Odet.Château de Penfrat, Gouesnac'h, 02-98-54-59- 09, low season: €95 per night, penfrat.comThree bedrooms all year round in a splendid farmhouse with fields as far as the eye can see, with a farming couple.Saint-Anne, Bannalec, 02-98-39-53 -44, room at 52 €.

Read also: "You can become Breton if you like Brittany"

# Feasting: from the sea to the billigs

Seafood and pancakes are the two strong points of the region. When it comes to cuisine, Brittany knows how to combine simplicity and indulgence.

In the Tara warehouse, in Plobannalec-Lesconil, you can taste exceptional seafood (Jean-Marie Heidinger for "l'Obs")

Seafood

> The canteen that is falling apart

On the port of Lesconil, this former warehouse dressed in red ocher looks modest, but the menu is not, with its exceptional seafood. Tasting and sale to take away.

Tara Cantine de Mer, on the port, West quay, Plobannalec-Lesconil, 02-98-82-27-43. Fish of the day at €13.

> We love lobster

As the days pass and the vacationers pass, the reputation of this shellfish restaurant continues unabated. People come from afar for its half-lobster with kari gosse sauce (a kind of Breton curry), its stuffed clams, its Riec-sur-Bélon oysters, its terrace sheltered from the wind with a view. Very pretty bistro with a bench in bottle green leatherette and 1950s chairs.

The Bistrot de l’Ecailler, Kerdruc, Névez, 02-98-06-78-60. Menu at 45 €.

> The chef comes out of his shell

It will soon be half a century since La Coquille is the prestigious address where Concarneau dines for special occasions. In 2006, a great chef brought honor to the city: Jean-François Sicallac, a native of Quiberon who wanted to rediscover his Brittany. He left Paris, the Quai de la Tournelle and its prestigious Tour d'Argent for the Quai du Moros in Concarneau. And he took over this establishment, unique in its way of mixing the chic with the popular, located where the fishermen come to unload their hold. Diners have a view of the Walled City with its arms in the water, and the parade of trawlers. For the past two years, a new wood decor has replaced the stone, giving the place a postmodern air.

La Coquille, 1, quai du Moros, Concarneau, 02-98-97-08-52, menus from €30 to €46.50, lacoquille-concarneau.com

Creperies

At the Goûter Breton, in Douarnenez: good pancakes and original decor. (Jean-Marie Heidinger for "l'Obs")

> Cakes and junkyards

In Douarnenez, everyone speaks highly of "Chez Tudal", a funny creperie-grocery store (unless it's the opposite) full of warm bric-a-brac. The artist collective Rouillegorges has been there: large scrap metal molds serve as ceiling lights, and a giant octopus in weathered rust hugs the gable of the house. Funny as a concept. The house also offers fourteen different ciders.

At the Breton Snack, 36, rue Jean-Jaurès, Douarnenez, 02-98-92-02-74. Menu of 3 crepes (1 salty and 2 sweet or vice versa) at €14.

> The little house in the walled town

At the end of the Ville Close, the crêperie Le Pentti is of course taken by storm, but it is so pretty: climbing ivy, Breton earthenware planters, paper butterflies on the blue shutters, a shaded patio . Pleasant welcome, reasonable addition: we run there. (The creperie across the street is very good too.)

Le Pentti, at the bottom of the Ville Close, Concarneau, 02-98-97-46-02. Formulas from 10 to 12 €, complete cake at 5.70 €.

It's aperitif time

> A balcony on the steir

The house, typical and Breton, has been repainted in blue, and its half-timbering, in yellow. We will have a drink on the tiny terrace on the second floor while watching the river flow – the place is very poetic in winter, in the dark night. The café extends over the beautiful Place Terre-au-Duc and is a restaurant, with prices adapted to the wallets of the young local clientele.

The Steir, 7, place Terre-au-Duc, Quimper, 02-98-55-60-61. Open until 9 p.m.

> Class

This bar located on Port-Rhu is very popular with its boat decor, old nautical charts and ropes. This is where the youth of Douarnenez meet on summer evenings and groups of all kinds – rock, techno. We go there for the half on the wooden terrace listening to the song of the pontoons.

Le Pourquoi Pas, 15, quai du Port-Rhu, Douarnenez, 09-81-68-48-60. Open until 1 a.m. on weekdays and 3:30 a.m. on weekends.

Cauliflower soup with black olivesTo accompany the "flower of Brittany", the author of this guide gives you a recipe he invented. In a saucepan, cover a cauliflower cut into pieces with water, add a pinch of salt, cook. Mix without too much water to obtain a thick velouté. Add a little milk or fresh cream so that the soup is a nice white. Serve in bowls. Cut the Greek-style black olives into thin pieces (in their juice) and scatter them over the soup. Do not mix. A quarter of an hour in the kitchen for this sophisticated and original starter.

Read also: "You can become Breton if you like Brittany"

# Going out: the headlights of the night

What to do in Bénodet, Concarneau, Douarnenez… after sunset? A resident of Quimper, a young nightclubber, shares her tips. Follow the leader !

In Ceili, in Quimper, the Celts are kings. (Jean-Marie Heidinger for "l'Obs")

Bénodet

> Relaxation and tents

Le Prad is at the entrance to Le Port de Plaisance campsite. The summer atmosphere is assured. It is a restaurant with a choice of famous pizzas. But once the meal is over, the atmosphere turns to the night party. The place is trendy with its play of light and its dance floor which give it a fairly hype character. There are often themed evenings, salsa evenings for example.

Le Prad, a place called Prad Poullou, Clohars-Fouesnant, 02-98-57-24-24. Every day, from 10 a.m. to 12:30 a.m.

> games party

Superb place to discover the world of gambling, filled with slot machines of all kinds. We start an evening with friends with a game of blackjack. The smoking area is unusual, the size of a double telephone booth.

Casino Barrière, 7, Corniche de la Plage, 02-98-66-27-27. Every day from 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Combrit

> Field bass

Le Café local is a night bar located in the countryside. Excellent mojitos generously served with tapas and other appetizers. The exterior is spacious, overlooked by white arbours, with small wicker armchairs as furniture that everyone is snapping up. Inside, another bar, more cozy, where people dance until late. The local Café is "the place to be" with its little design air and dimmed lights.

Local cafe, Kerhor, 09-66-93-66-12. Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday from 6 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Friday and Saturday from 6 p.m. to 3 a.m.

> Musical beach

Without a doubt, La Chaumière (which has more thatch than the name) is the club that has had the most success in the summer and has been for three generations. La Chaumière is by the sea, we picnic on the beach with friends, we drink beers, we listen to music. As the evening progresses, the beach fills up, we get to know each other. La Chaumière is an intimate place: two narrow dance floors, two styles of music. Crowded bar but spacious terrace with sea air breaking through the fence. City or country attire, anything goes. It is called "the box of surfers".

La Chaumière, 11, chemin des Douaniers, 02-98-56-49-28. Monday to Saturday, 9 p.m. to 4 a.m.

Concarneau

> drinking stories

The stone house built opposite the Walled City was in the 19th century the haunt of fishing bosses and then that of the sea customs responsible for capturing smugglers. Nowadays, with its ermine flag and celadon shutters, it is a night bar (and a club) which has become an institution thanks to the grace of Marguerite Guézennec, alias "Guitte", who has held the Korrigans for thirty- seven years watching over the night owls. His disappearance in 1996 affected the Concarnois diaspora. Since then, we continue to say that we go "to Guitte".

The Tavern of the Korrigans, 2, avenue du Docteur Pierre-Nicolas, 02-98-97-02-37. Thursday to Sunday, 6:30 p.m. to 5 a.m.

Douarnenez

The Café des Halles, a meeting place in Douarnenez (Jean-Marie Heidinger for "l'Obs")

> Yer'mat ("Chin!")

The terrace of the Café des Halles is located right next to the covered market, central to the life of Douarnenists since 1870. It is the rallying point for wicker baskets after shopping, and the meeting place for friends throughout the day. Family atmosphere. In the evening comes the time for the tours: the Finisterian has peace of mind and is happy to pay his "coup" rather than quibble over the bills. Concerts on weekends.

The Café des Halles, 3, place des Halles, 02-98-92-02-75. Open until 12:45 a.m.

And also…For the night parties, the rock atmosphere, the large terrace and a punch for everyone.Le Banana Boat, 47 quai de Port-Rhu, Douarnenez, 02-98-92-10-43. Open every day, on weekends until 5 a.m. For the pretty port of Rosmeur, the terrace, the boats, theme nights, live music.Aux Loups des Mers, 33 quai du Grand-Port, Douarnenez , 02-90-41-78-88. Open 10 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Plomelin

> Good tracks

This is one of the best clubs in the area with its three rooms (a main room, a zouk room and an 1980s room). Outside on the terrace, sale of paninis and other sandwiches. Among the bouncers, all as cool as each other, the legendary Charlie, in the locker room, with his warm smile, sets the tone for the evening.

Le Mylord, 72, route de Pont-l’Abbé, 02-98-94-26-80. Friday to Sunday, midnight to 6 a.m.

Quimper

> Celtic lair

The Ceili is reputed to be the happiest and most popular of cafes. No bulky superficiality, it's simplicity. In an Irish pub atmosphere, you can taste its Irish coffee shooter or its Arthurienne, the drink of the Gauls: beer, cider, chouchen and lambig. More sophisticated atmosphere upstairs, but the spirit remains the same. In summer, the Ceili is the meeting place for the bagadoù, the Breton orchestras, who come here to continue their concert. With a simple "Do you have any fire?", we make a dozen friends on the terrace.

Ceili Pub, 4, rue Aristide-Briand, 02-98-95-17-61. Up to 1 hour.

> Balls in stock

The Master is a complex where you come to play, among other things, bowling and billiards. Festive atmosphere, light and succulent cocktails. And even if a room is reserved for arcade games, it's the perfect place to forget your phone and technology: all around a pool table or on a bowling alley, wanting to win... or at least not lose too much because the loser, ritual obliges, pays his round.

Bowling Le Master, 59, rue President-Sadate, 02-98-53-09-59. Up to 2 hours.

> water dance

Les Naïades, a nightclub located 100 meters from the Master, is frequented by students. We love its swimming pool, nicely lit, where we swim in summer. The track is tiny and the music commercial, heavy according to some, but the place cultivates a certain chic.

Les Naïdes, 108, Creac’h-Gwenn roundabout, 02-98-53-32-30. Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 p.m. to 6 a.m.

> club car park

No more looking for your teenagers at night, they are in the Quick car park. Eh yes. When everything is closed, the party ends at the fast food restaurant (a few meters from the Naïades) open 24 hours a day, from Wednesday to Sunday. A real institution, this is where we meet or meet people. While waiting for his order, it's fun, people talk to each other from car to car, others are sitting on the ground...

Quick car park, 155, route de Bénodet

Read also: "You can become Breton if you like Brittany"

# Shopping: the pleasure of giving

What to bring back from a trip to Armorica? We have selected a few famous addresses where you will find the great Breton classics.

> A waterproof bag

It was originally a small fishing clothing shop opened in the winter of 1964 in the port of Concarneau and the first steps of Guy Cotten, son of farmers and second youngest of eight siblings. Today, the Rosbras (the wax, often yellow) is a classic worn on all pontoons in the world. Seen in chic men's ready-to-wear window displays, the Cotten waterproof bag is also trendy.

Guy Cotten end-of-series store, route de Concarneau, Trégunc, 02-98-97-66-79. Tuesday to Friday, 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 1:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.

> Vintage sardines

The little shop is called Penn Sardin, the name given in the 18th century to the population of Douarnenez and its workers. There are vintage sardines – fans know that the older the cans, the better they are, provided they have been kept by turning them regularly. Some boxes are collectors.

Penn Sardin, 7, rue Le Breton, Douarnenez, 02-98-92-70-83, pennsardin.com

> Lace effect

Nathalie Dérouet set up as a ceramist in 2004. Since then, people have come from far and wide to admire her craftsmanship. The slight twist of the ceramic due to extreme cooking is worth a signature. Fine and openwork, the covers renew the image of Breton lace.

Nathalie Dérouet, 2, impasse Théodore-Doaré, Douarnenez, 02-98-92-33-79, nathaliederouet.com

> The little Armor-Lux dress

Brittany's emblem since 1938, Armor-Lux now equips TGV and post office personnel and does not just scratch. The proof by the little summer dress. Very pretty with a belt, elegant in the evening with a big sailor sweater on the shoulders. Beautiful François Le Villec crockery in this same store.

Armor-Lux/François Le Villec, 4, rue du Roi-Gradlon, Quimper, 02-98-95-31-54.

> silver anchor

In the city center, Histoire de Bijoux exhibits a few wrist chains with a discreet anchor. A classic.

History of Jewelry, 9, rue René-Madec, Quimper, 02-98-95-83-53.

> A kouign-amann

You can find very good kouign-amann in supermarkets. The idea is to stock up on the day of departure to freeze them. Serving this legendary buttery dessert with butter elicits as much hilarity as it does (fake) protest.

Read also: "You can become Breton if you like Brittany"

# Billig addicts: place aux crêpes

In Quimper, seven crêperies officiate on the small Place au Beurre. There, the pros of the galette juggle between daring and tradition to satiate with cider and buckwheat. "Yer'mat!"

1 - The distinguished. A lick of pale gray paint from floor to ceiling (and even on the bigouden furniture) has transformed the rustic room into a "trendy" place. Like the crepe with lemon zest served in a crispy cone. Crêperie Sucré-Sallé, 6, rue du Sallé, 02-98-64-51-42.

2 - The coquette. Two small rooms, rough stone walls, a fireplace, a narrow wooden staircase to go to the kitchen, an irreproachable complete: the place pleases for its simplicity and its little medieval and leaning air. Creperie at Place au Beurre, 2 B, Place au Beurre, 02-98-95-49-88.

3 - The conqueror. This restaurant has become a creperie to adapt to walkers who come to place au Beurre for crepes, cider, buttermilk. Its facade is the most imposing, its terrace is the largest and they have the most billigs. L’Ardoise, 2, place au Beurre, 02-98-95-43-75.

4 - The youngest. A young crepe maker has bought the pearl shop on Place au Beurre to turn it into an adorable mini-creperie. SNCF agents in transit come there in the evening for the very cool atmosphere, the crepe with leek coulis, the homemade cider. Mimi, the Japanese shiba inu who picks up passers-by, was honored by the local press. Creperie Ty-Ru, 11, rue du Sallé, 02-98-92-96-23.

5 - The proud one. Oldest on the square, the Krampouzerie runs thanks to an excellent reputation and its seaweed crepe from Ouessant. It employs a dozen organic producers. La Krampouzerie, 9, rue du Sallé, place au Beurre, 02-98-95-13-08.

6 - The discreet one. You who pass by without seeing it, know that the regulars love its pretty room and its 4-star welcome. J.-C. makes his billigs sing while listening to Radio Nostalgie. Mimi (Ty-Ru's dog) sticks his nose out every morning at 11 a.m. to get a piece of andouillette. Crêperie Saint-Corentin, 3, rue du Sallé, 09-83-00-29-48.

7 - The independent. With its facade on rue Fréron, An Diskuiz (“the place where you get tired” in Breton) turns its back on the square and welcomes strollers coming up from the cathedral. At the entrance, a closed bed has been recycled into a dresser. Nice idea for home. Creperie An Diskuiz, 12, rue Elie-Fréron, 02-98-95-55-70.

Anne Crignon (with Sophie Crignon)